I have a brand, and that brand is apparently Fancy Headgear.
I was honored to be asked if I’d be willing to make a boqta for a baroness/vicerine who I like a lot but haven’t gotten to spend much time with’s deinvestiture. It being me, I’m going for the Boqta to End All Boqtas.
I do enjoy Extra. 🙂
In progress photos and finished shots won’t be posted until after the event (I’d like her to see it first), but here’s some research photos! I will also add links to resources I used after it’s done and my brain remembers to document things.
I made very little for myself for Pennsic 2022, which is for the best. This meant that I was available when Remy desperately needed new clothes–he out-swoled nearly all of his–and I am sufficiently extra (and versed in Cavalier-era garb) to make some for him so he didn’t have to stress about it.
The goal was 3 new doublets and 3 new breeches, but I only managed 2 of each, partly due to a Gravitational Anomaly the day before I was due to leave for Pennsic. Aka I’m super clumsy and fell down the front stairs while hauling bins out to the car and broke my left elbow, bruised some ribs, and bashed my forehead into the street. No really. I headbutted the street. Asphalt and I are not friends. Fortunately, I did not have a concussion, just a really gnarly egg that was super vein-y and creepy looking. The broken arm and SUPER unhappy ribs were a much bigger problem. Still, I am a stubborn creature and continued the hand-sewing portions of working on Remy’s garb anyway because we can’t have Remy running around Pennsic naked. Even if many jokes were made that I’d get a service award if he did. 🙂 I promise that I stopped when it hurt more than hand sewing normally does.
I did use his pre-existing pattern with a little bit extra put in the seams to accommodate the extra swole. The results went a bit weird (there ended up being WAY too much fabric in the front seam and we’re not sure how that happened), but it was possible to work with it and get things looking mostly decent. I’ll post pics when I take some of the one yet-unfinished outfit.
On the plus side, I did have his fancy royal blue velveteen with silver woven trim ready for his Champ’s fight, and it looked LOVELY in the sunlight. I have plans to add some more trim to it (I was short on time) and I only have a couple of photos of it in action, so I need to dress him up and make him pose for me to show it off properly.
As I go through trying to organize my thoughts, I am constantly forgetting exactly where I found xyz information, so maybe this will be a way to help people see where I’m getting my info. 🙂
DEFINITELY not a complete list! This is just for starters. Welcome to my library!
This is also not currently organized into topic sections—I hope to get to that eventually, but it’s gonna take a while. I have a LOT of sources! I am constantly digging through JSTOR and journal article repositories for new info.
Xiong, Victor, Sui–Tang Chang’an: A Study in the Urban History of Late Medieval China, University of Michigan, 2000.
Mou, Sherry J., Presence and Presentation : Women in the Chinese Literati Tradition / Sherry J. Mou, Editor. St. Martin’s Press, 1999.
I also have several books in Chinese that I need to have translated. I’m also desperately seeking an English translation of the Beili Zhi, “The Records/Analects of the Northern Ward”.
First, a note. A lot of websites don’t cite sources, but they can be very helpful for finding terminology to search for and especially for finding Chinese names/characters for things. They can also be excellent jumping-off points if they do cite sources. Just going through Wikipedia can net you all kinds of terminology to go digging for. Verify everything with multiple sources!
Jinghua WANGLING. From Reflection to Desire: Fifth- through Ninth-Century Poetry on “Observing Female Entertainers”[J]. Front. Lit. Stud. China, 2016, 10(2): 287-317.
Yue, Hong, “Romantic Identity in the Funerary Inscriptions (muzhi) of Tang China”, Asia Major, Third Series, 25:1 (2012), 33–62.
Zurndorfer, H. (2011). Prostitutes and Courtesans in the Confucian Moral Universe of Late Ming China (1550–1644). International Review of Social History,56(S19), 197-216. doi:10.1017/S0020859011000411.
Victor Xiong, “Ji-entertainers in T’ang Chang’an,” in Presence and Presentation: Women in the Chinese Literature Tradition, ed. Sherry Mou (New York: St. Martin’s Press, 1999): 149-69.
Heng Chye Kiang; Visualizing Everyday Life in the City: A Categorization System for Residential Wards in Tang Chang’an. Journal of the Society of Architectural Historians 1 March 2014; 73 (1): 91–117. doi: https://doi.org/10.1525/jsah.2014.73.1.91
Looking through a lot of extant tomb murals and pottery figurines from the Tang Dynasty, one of the hairstyles that I see a LOT is what looks like two tall wings sweeping back from the top of the head (see photos below). A lot of digging found that this style was called “Ban Fan Ji” or upswept bun. The specific two-wing version I’m looking at is a double ban fan ji.
The single ban fan ji appears to have been more popular, but as both are still common (and I already have a very long, thin face rather than the preferred round face), I decided that the double ban fan ji hairpiece would add a bit more width and be more flattering on me.
There is also significant evidence of false hairpieces and wigs being used in the Tang Dynasty (and earlier). There are a few pieces still extant, though I haven’t been able to find out exactly how they were attached to one’s head yet. I still don’t read Chinese, alas, so there’s a lot of waiting for translations involved. One of the extant pieces is painted wood, one is horse hair on some kind of shaped base, and I’ve also found a less-specifically shaped base made of cloth and wire–I need to dig the image for that up and I’ll add it when I find it again.
Some of my materials for making hairpieces are NOT period. Extant hairpieces were made of wood, cloth, and/or wire, but I use wire and foam sheets to be able to keep the final piece as light as possible. These things get heavy FAST and I much prefer not to have a massive headache and neck ache all day from trying hold my hairpiece up. I also use enormous amounts of glue, which may be period (looks like it, from what I can see on that horse hair piece). There’s a good chance that there was a lot of wax involved in styling hair and hairpieces, but I’ve tried that once and unless I want to have that style in for at least a week, it isn’t worth the effort required for SCA purposes. It’s also really hard on your real hair and scalp.
I’m hoping that weather will cooperate for GNEW in two weeks–if so, I’ll bring a bunch of material and work on a piece out where people can watch what I’m doing. 🙂
I’m trying, yet again, to get this blog off the ground, but I have been fighting a lot of writer’s block, a lot of lack of energy, and even more trying to figure out how to get WordPress to do pretty much anything. This is definitely not an intuitive platform!
I am absolutely an editor and not a writer (or a graphic designer), so apologies that a lot of my information is going to at least start off being very stream-of-consciousness and likely a giant mess to look at. Hopefully it makes some semblance of sense.
What is Phaedra up to? Like most people, I have had verrrrrry little energy past mere existence. That said, I have been working on a few things here and there. I’ve made a few Greek chitons. It’s actually really soothing to sit and hand-sew straight hems in linen while watching/half-ignoring something on tv. I just need to decide how to embellish them, since the printing blocks I ordered back in March are apparently never going to get here (ugh. No way am I going to get a refund at this point).
I’m currently mid-way through repairs to my rapier armor doublet. The collar and cuffs were getting GROSS and so I’ve torn them off and am replacing them with linen pieces that I can more easily pull off and wash/replace. The collar is done, now I just need to do the cuffs.
There are at least two mischief projects in the works. Or there were when I originally wrote up this post on FB, at least. At this point, I’ve completely forgotten what I was doing. Hopefully I wrote it down somewhere.
Additionally, I’m going through my giant mass of academic sources and trying to narrow down to 3-4 topics of reasonable scope to actually start writing or making presentations about. Current probabilities are:
Chinese courtesans (though that needs a lot of narrowing down–there’s a lot to a topic that broad!)
history of tea and serving tea in China
connections/trade between China and Europe
the structure of Chinese households based on rank (the Imperial Household, a noble’s household, wives vs concubines vs maids vs household entertainers and how many of each you were allowed to have, etc.)
The Imperial Household may end up being its own topic because there’s a LOT, even just going through the various ranks of concubines–how many different ranks, how many per rank, what each rank did, how to move between ranks, the many roles of the eunichs, etc. As usual, I have more ideas than I have actual energy for. I’m trying to post here more often, but I get writer’s block so bad! Also, the “updated” WordPress user interface is shit and it’s super difficult to use. How the hell do I fix indents?!
I have several projects currently in motion, hopefully to be completed by Pennsic. The most difficult involved a lot of applique and working with gold cloth. And a lot of me attempting to draw (not one of my skills) a decent-looking pattern for the applique blown up large enough to be what I want. Yes, I’m being deliberately vague here, but I don’t want to give it away/show it off before I get a chance to debut it. 🙂
I hope that it’s at least partly sunny for Opening Ceremonies. If this works, it’s going to be epic and I’d like to have it out in the sun where it can really shine. Hey, Her Majesty said that so long as I’m not actively on fire, I can go nuts and be as Extra as possible.
Why do I do this to myself? (Oh right, because I’m crazy.)
Pennsic Project List:
1. Secret Project and accessories
2. Roman tunics for The Boys (done!)
3. Roman courtesan dress for me (done!)
4. Camp tunic(s) for Thomas
5. Shirt for Remy
6. Light linen gown
7. Blue silk beaded veil (done!)
8. White silk veil and wimple
9. New cuffs and collar for my fencing doublet
10. At least one extra Chinese wig/hairpiece
11. Re-sew Roman garb and extend German cuffs/collar for Skye
12. Nice men’s style short cotehardie, if I get the chance.
A few days ago, I discovered that I have full, free access to JSTOR and a bunch of other journal repositories through my job. THERE ARE NO WORDS FOR MY EXCITEMENT! I am several hundred articles down the rabbit hole and happy squeaking the whole way.
Things I’m studying (assume Tang and Song Dynasties of China unless otherwise noted):
– Courtesans and their place in society/function/what they did/how their “business” worked/sexual mores, etc.
– Poetry and literature
– Gardens (for relaxation and pleasure)
– Furniture and its construction
– Hairstyles (and their meaning)
I’ve also started studying the Chinese language, especially how to read it, so that will open a lot of study opportunities as well.
Beware, O Internet, for The End has come! I am FINALLY getting off my ass and trying to get an A&S blog started! It’s going to be slow to get moving (I have a LOT of projects with deadlines on my plate right now), but at least now it exists.